Setting off on the Shimanami Kaido

I set off early, scared that I wouldn’t make it to my accommodation before nightfall. But I needn’t have worried… even stopping constantly for photos I made good time. The roads were quiet, there were only farmers and once, a police car, where the inhabitants got out and said ‘ohayo’. Occasionally steep (for me) climbs punctuated by vending machine drinks and ice cream breaks. The smells were beautiful, almost tropical.


My first introduction to Japan. Tatami bedtimes, mornings secretly opening the shutters to watch the sunrise from bed, the seaside, friendly and relaxed cats, hundreds of steps, ohayo gozaimasu, Lu, ice cream and puddings, teenage lovers sitting on the sea wall under a full moon, kind people.


The Gosling lean never looked better than in this film.