Continuing on the Shimanami Kaido

I made good time to Kosangi temple and strolled around the grounds, a monument to the creator’s mother. There was a cold, dark cave of buddhas, which was intimidating and frightening, but you exit to the feet of a huge goddess of mercy and feel like you’ve been saved. I bought an island orange and […]

Setting off on the Shimanami Kaido

I set off early, scared that I wouldn’t make it to my accommodation before nightfall. But I needn’t have worried… even stopping constantly for photos I made good time. The roads were quiet, there were only farmers and once, a police car, where the inhabitants got out and said ‘ohayo’. Occasionally steep (for me) climbs […]

Onomichi

My first introduction to Japan. Tatami bedtimes, mornings secretly opening the shutters to watch the sunrise from bed, the seaside, friendly and relaxed cats, hundreds of steps, ohayo gozaimasu, Lu, ice cream and puddings, teenage lovers sitting on the sea wall under a full moon, kind people.