Alone in a big city is a shock to the system after a week in the countryside. People everywhere. Escape to small neighbourhoods, a cat cafe, a takoyaki cafe, a Showa-era pancake diner where cigarette smoke lingers in the air. The sales assistant at Truck exclaims ‘sugoi!” when I tell him I’m travelling alone for […]
Splurging on the island hotel meant late night walks around the museum and the island. A rare sighting of a tanuki that at first I thought was a strange-looking large cat (two Japanese girls confirmed it was a tanuki). Art in quiet places, slow revelations of light by James Turrell.
I made good time to Kosangi temple and strolled around the grounds, a monument to the creator’s mother. There was a cold, dark cave of buddhas, which was intimidating and frightening, but you exit to the feet of a huge goddess of mercy and feel like you’ve been saved. I bought an island orange and […]
I set off early, scared that I wouldn’t make it to my accommodation before nightfall. But I needn’t have worried… even stopping constantly for photos I made good time. The roads were quiet, there were only farmers and once, a police car, where the inhabitants got out and said ‘ohayo’. Occasionally steep (for me) climbs […]
Cats sleeping on the roads, an old lady sees me taking photos of them and speaks to me in Japanese, places two hard-boiled sweets in my hand, walks away. A couple who run an old building with a beautiful viewpoint of the sea insist on taking photos for me. An old lady selling snacks tells […]
My first introduction to Japan. Tatami bedtimes, mornings secretly opening the shutters to watch the sunrise from bed, the seaside, friendly and relaxed cats, hundreds of steps, ohayo gozaimasu, Lu, ice cream and puddings, teenage lovers sitting on the sea wall under a full moon, kind people.