Alone in a big city is a shock to the system after a week in the countryside. People everywhere. Escape to small neighbourhoods, a cat cafe, a takoyaki cafe, a Showa-era pancake diner where cigarette smoke lingers in the air. The sales assistant at Truck exclaims ‘sugoi!” when I tell him I’m travelling alone for six weeks around the country. Starting to get the hang of Japanese and understanding how interactions work. Staying far away from other tourists.